Part 2: How to recognize eco-responsible clothing?
We've talked about raw materials and garment provenance. Here are the final 3 steps to recognizing eco-responsible clothing.
3 - Labels
For the third step, we're going to take a closer look at the labels. There are so many of them that an entire article will be devoted to them. Here's a table presenting them to you:
Environmental labels on materials :
GOTS The Global Organic Textile Standard label guarantees that textile raw materials are produced in an ecologically and socially responsible way. It guarantees that GOTS-labeled materials are made from over 95% organic fibers.
Oeko-Tex The Oeko-Tex® Standard label comes after the harvesting stage. It monitors the processing of natural materials, both animal and non-animal, and ensures that no products harmful to health are used throughout the raw material transformation process.
Organic Content Standard: The OCS label can be considered a cousin of the GOTS label, but for professionals. It guarantees that the textile purchased contains at least 95% certified organic materials. The label covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, marketing and distribution of any product containing at least 95% certified organic materials.
ECOCERT: The Ecocert label guarantees that the product complies with ecological and social standards throughout the production chain. It's a comprehensive label, covering a whole range of ethical and eco-responsible standards.
Animal welfare labels :
PETA: People for the Ethical Treatment of Animal (PETA) is an international non-profit organization dedicated to protecting the rights and dignity of animals. This label guarantees that the product contains no animal materials.
RWS: The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) guarantees the well-being of sheep and respect for pastures. Sheep must be well cared for, i.e. enjoy good living conditions (absence of hunger, thirst, pain) and have sufficient space. Musling is forbidden. As far as the environment is concerned, deforestation and the transformation of the ecosystem into farmland is forbidden.
RDS: Like RWS, the Responsible Down Standard label guarantees the protection of geese and ducks raised for their down and feathers. No harm may be done to them, and it is therefore forbidden to use down or feathers from live animals, or to resort to force-feeding. It ensures respect for the animal from hatching to slaughter.
Labels guaranteeing social protection for workers :
FairTrade: This is a well-known label in the food industry, guaranteeing fair trade in products. In particular, it aims to protect producers from falling raw material prices by guaranteeing a stable price. It also guarantees environmental protection and safe working conditions.
WFTO: The World Fair Trade Organization label is awarded to organizations and guarantees wage and economic protection. On the social front, child labor is prohibited, working conditions are monitored and gender equality is promoted. Production must be carried out with a view to reducing environmental impact.
Fair Wear Foundation: This label applies to the textile industry only, and ensures good working conditions for employees. Like the WFTO label, it is awarded to a company, not a product. In particular, it ensures the payment of a fair wage and prohibits excessively long working days.
Label guaranteeing 100% French manufacturing:
OFG: The Origine France Garantit label guarantees that between 50% and 100% of the unit cost price is French, and that the product takes its essential characteristics from France. An article will soon be published on the ambiguity of certain products that are made in France, but not quite so made in France.
4 - Brand
Yes, even though some major brands are releasing "eco-responsible" collections, the approach must go further than a percentage of ecological material. Even if a piece is eco-friendly on the label, it must meet other requirements such as ethical manufacturing methods and a garment's lifespan longer than 3 washes.
Green washing is a trendy phenomenon, and fashion is no exception. And if those lovely jeans are made from organic cotton, but were manufactured in China under unknown conditions, they'll travel an average of 65,000km before arriving in your wardrobe. That's 1.5 times around the world. Enough to make you jealous in times of confinement. As you can see, fast-fashion brands can't guarantee the eco-responsibility of their products. You can read the article on green washing here.
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The best thing is to turn to local brands, to support jobs here, and next door (if that's Spain or Portugal, and between you and me, tapas is life). That's why we've put together an article on our top 10 eco-responsible French brands.
5 - Prices
Price matters, but beware of appearances. We've come to the final stage: price. It's true that a garment made under decent working conditions, with ecological raw materials, a production system that respects the environment and labels, comes at a price.
Watch out for guaranteed-organic clothing at €10 or 70% off. If you want to be eco-responsible, you have to learn to consume less but better. Some say this comes at a cost. I don't think so. Buying a €40 t-shirt that will last 10 years, or a new one every year, the calculation is quickly done.
So there you have it: to recognize eco-responsible clothing, you need to know a few things. Well done to those of you who have read all the way to the end. I hope you've learned something and that this will inspire you to join us in making a difference in the fashion world!
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